Ometepe: You just can't see too many Volcanoes, it's impossible

I spent a few days in Ometepe, an island in lake Nicaragua.
The lake is the largest in Central America, and whilst it isn't as breathtaking as Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, it's quite something to look across a lake that feels more like an ocean, with no sign of the other side even on a clear day.

The lake is also famous for the world's only fresh water sharks (bull sharks, mean fuckers), which had a boom and bust industry built around their wholesale slaughter in the 70s and 80s for their fins, making them practically extinct now.
I kind of wanted to see one, and I asked the woman at the hostel: she said she'd never seen one, but then again she rents Kayaks too, so you can hardly trust that, right? I didn't see any though.

Ometepe is a figure 8, with a volcano at the centre of each circle. When you're in the narrow strip that joins them, you can see a volcano on either side you. And the biggest, concepcion, looks like something from a movie: a subdued green in colour, it has cracks like deep scars, as if saomeone had raked massive claws down it from top to bottom.
The top is usually cloud covered, and it seems to wrap around the peak as if you'd taken the volcano and dipped it in the candy floss vat, letting the cloud floss spin around the top in whispy threads.

The place is also pretty underdeveloped, most of the roads are dirt tracks that turn to slush in the rain, and the buses are generally falling apart: I even saw a woman on the bus with a squirrel on her lap, with a lead of blue string, being fed mango.

Oh, and I was hanging with a Canadian, an Israeli and a Norweigan girl, and was pleasantly surprised when I told the Canadian guy to 'fix up', and he replied "fix up, look sharp! Do you like Dizzy Rascal?"