Monday, July 9, 2007

Medellin... in general

Medellin... well, for a start, the Colombians pronounce the ll as a j, not as a y, so it sounds like Medejin....



Medellin, home of Pable Escobar's coke trade, and of the current right-wing, hard line, FARK busting president.
Escobar's mark is still left on this city, he was defacto governer, he built houses and owned clubs, and died in a hail of gunfire running across the roofs of houses here... there's a picture by a famous Medellin artist, who's statues decorate the plazas, of Escobar falling, larger than life, like King Kong, from the roofs of Medellin... You can visit his grave on the outskirts of town, and of course all the 18 year olds take C up there and do a line of his grave.... (that particular tourist attraction doesn't do it for me).

Medellin is nestled in a valley surrounded by green mountains, and at night the lights from the towns on the slopes of the mountains sparkle like stars.



Medellin, home of some incredibly friendly people: I've had people chat to me in plazas, help me out of nowhere using pay phones, practice their English with me, let me practice my Spanglish...

Medellin, with a great metro train that becomes an L train in the centre, offering great views from the clean, quiet and safe train lines. Part of it is a cable car, so for a dollar you can travel up the mountain for a great view of the city, from one of the poorer burbs.

Medellin, with one of the nicest Spanish accents I've heard, with elongated As that sound like notes being sung a little flat, claro = claaaro, facile = faaacile....

Medellin, a place I could definitely live.

*sighs*

Nightlife in Medellin...



Mangos had been recommended to me as follows: "Hot Colombian Woman are literally falling out of the sky, from poles. "

I had already been to a club the night before with drinks all inclusive, serving blow your head off rums all night (and if you ask for coke they look at you like you're a pussy).
The bar was a circle in the middle of the club, with dancers on a platform in the center of it. There were so many glow sticks about that when the lights went out the other side of the bar looked like a massive light saber fight. So if Mangos was better than that, well....

Oh, and the other thing I had heard: "And there are dwarves, dwarf wrestling, dwarf salsa." Dwarves, you say? Well say no more!


I rolled 15 strong with the hostel posse, Israelis (so many Israelis in Latin America it's not even funnu), ozzies, Brits, and some Dutchies ('the girlsh here are shuper shexy').

The place is half saloon, half Latin cantina... wood and faded posters, mirrors, wagon wheels, cow heads... As we walked in there were Salsa partners on the stage, one of which is a dwarf couple.

Wandering around randomly are people in fancy dress; cowboys and cowgirls, all with crazy silicon: Medellin is full of cosmetic surgery, apparently wives are bought boob jobs for wedding presents, some girls even as a 16th birthday coming of age thing.
Besides the cowboys, there was a man with only one arm, in a hospital gown dragging his drip with him; and gypsy women with piercings and cigars; half doctors / half S and M gimps... it was all quite surreal.

The blokes toilet had sinks that were like a water trough, and the taps were actually replica horses heads, with the water flowing from the mouth, so as you walk in it looks like several horses are drinking from the trough.

The next stage show was even more crazy: first to slide down the pole was a Tarzan guy, miming his Tarzan call as it was played on the speakers, followed by a Jane character, then a guy dressed as a lion, then a zebra man, his skin painted in white and black stripes, with a headpiece of white fur from his crown to the bottom of his back.
Finally, a dwarf in a monkey suit shoots down the pole, and starts cartwheeling and rolling around the stage. I can almost hear Hunter S in my mind at this point.

Strobes again, as the strange jungle tecno with a Tarzan call as the main sample is syncronished to the lights and the dancing of this Tarzan and Jane family.

And whenever a dwarf walks by you have an irresistible urge to grab it, put it in a bag, take it to the hostel and make it dance for you.
Shows like this continue throughout the night, with sweaty, toned, and surgically enhanced Colombians dancing in various themed getups in strobe lighting, from break dancers to salsa to meringue to reggaeton grinding.

Outside in the street there's of course the obligatory guy with a tray of mints, sweets and cigarettes for sale, one at a time if you like, and a woman with a stall selling spicy sausage blobs you eat with a tooothpick and try to balance ketchup on without dropping it on yourself.

I left about 4AM, tried my best drunk conversational Spanglish with the taxi driver, and at the hostel found myself instantly taking over for someone in a Poker game, and winning 4000 pesos, about a quid.
That victory rounded of my night nicely, and I went to bed, my head spinning.